Bust – measure just under the arms around the fullest part of chest.
Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso.
High Hip – measure 6 inches [15.5 cm] below waist around the hips.
Back-waist length – measure from nape of neck to waist level
Shoulder length – measure shoulder from ball socket to side of neck.
Armhole depth – measure from nape of neck to under arm level.
Back width – measure from armhole to armhole across shoulder blades.
Neck – measure around base of neck.
Tools use for Drafting
A: Tape Measure
This is likely something you already have in your stash, because if you have been making clothing you should have been measuring your body along the way! If not, pick up a good quality fiberglass tape measure today so you can start your pattern making off right with correct body measurements.
B: Seam Ripper
Like the tape measure, you probably have a seam ripper. You will use this in pattern making for taking out your basting stitches when you move from the muslin fitting to the pattern drafting stage.
C: Fine Point Sharpie Marker
Muslin versions are always ugly because they are marked up, but you want to make your markings with a permanent and fine point. I like these push-button fine point sharpie pens as the cap always seems to get lost in my studio! These are quick and easy to use.
D: Tracing Wheel
To take your markings from the muslin stage to the pattern making stage, this tool will pierce through the paper and leave behind marks to draft with a mechanical pencil.
E: Rotary Cutter
I like using my rotary cutter for the big broad strokes of cutting muslin. Make sure to use a cutting mat beneath your item to protect the cutting surface of the table underneath!
F: Fabric Scissors
Sharp, high-quality scissors are used for all your fabric cutting in sewing and patternmaking. These will shape the muslin down to the proper size after you have cut it big and broad with the rotary cutter.
G: Tracing Paper
I personally do not use this, but many designers like it for leaving marks behind on their muslins. I like a sharpie or tracing wheel, but try these sheets out and perhaps you will love them! Many people do.
H: Scotch Tape
It is inevitable that you will need to tape pattern pieces together and I find that basic Scotch tape is the best for this.
I: Clear Rulers
Having a variety of clear rulers in different shapes and sizes is essential in your kit for pattern making. I like having a little one for marking in tiny areas, long ones for making marks for pin tucks, side seam lines, and other parts of the pattern making process that call for something longer than average. I also have a quilting square with diagonal lines for helping square up corners and creating angles.
J: Right Angle
This is also a huge help in creating perfect 90 degree angles on your pattern. These are also available in clear plastic, which most people prefer. I have had this black one since art school and still use it.
K: Curved Rulers
To shape arm holes, hip curves, hems and other lines that are not straight in pattern making, it is essential that you have a few different curved rulers to get the proper slope in your pattern.