Garments Designing In India

Garments Designing In India

Garments Designing In India

Definition of garment: 


What is garment? It is a common question for many people. Actually a garment is a piece of clothing which is manufactured by fabric or textile materials for protecting human body and decorated purpose. These materials can be natural, cellulose and synthetic fibers. There are many types of garments like woven or knitted with different names and uses. Garments can both metaphorically and literally bear the imprint of its wearers as objects that have been worn, carried or used to adorn, their persons. 

Classification of Garments: 
Garments could be classified based on several aspects as there is no standard classification system available. However, the garments could be classified based on the gender as male or female, or age as children’s garments. Generally, based on use, style and material, different varieties of garments show different styles. 

Garments Pattern Making Methods

Pattern Making

Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, and a sensitivity to interpret a design with a practical understanding of garment construction. For successful dress designing pattern making forms the fundamental step. This function connects design to production by producing paper templates for all components such as cloth, hemming, fusible etc. which have to be cut for completing a specific garment. 

Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human figure. Pattern making is a bridge function between design and production. A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which interprets the design in the form of the garment components. A pattern is flat while the body is not. The body has height, width and depth. Within this roughly cylindrical framework there are a series of secondary curves and bulges, which are of concern to the pattern maker. Darts are the basis of all pattern making. They convert the flat piece of cloth into a three dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body. 

A pattern maker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two dimensional fashion illustration. The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern making, fit and design are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort. 

Methods of Pattern Making 

Pattern making involves three methods- 

1.    Drafting

2.    Draping

3.    Flat paper pattern making

 

01. Drafting: It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate measurements taken on a person, dress or body form. Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances are marked on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern. Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or design patterns. 

MEASUREMENTS 

Bust – measure just under the arms around the fullest part of chest. 

Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso. 

High Hip – measure 6 inches [15.5 cm] below waist around the hips. 

Back-waist length – measure from nape of neck to waist level 

Shoulder length measure shoulder from ball socket to side of neck. 

Armhole depth – measure from nape of neck to under arm level. 

Back width – measure from armhole to armhole across shoulder blades. 

Neck – measure around base of neck. 

Tools use for Drafting 

A: Tape Measure 
This is likely something you already have in your stash, because if you have been making clothing you should have been measuring your body along the way! If not, pick up a good quality fiberglass tape measure today so you can start your pattern making off right with correct body measurements. 

B: Seam Ripper 
Like the tape measure, you probably have a seam ripper. You will use this in pattern making for taking out your basting stitches when you move from the muslin fitting to the pattern drafting stage

C: Fine Point Sharpie Marker 
Muslin versions are always ugly because they are marked up, but you want to make your markings with a permanent and fine point. I like these push-button fine point sharpie pens as the cap always seems to get lost in my studio! These are quick and easy to use. 

D: Tracing Wheel 
To take your markings from the muslin stage to the pattern making stage, this tool will pierce through the paper and leave behind marks to draft with a mechanical pencil. 

E: Rotary Cutter 
I like using my rotary cutter for the big broad strokes of cutting muslin. Make sure to use a cutting mat beneath your item to protect the cutting surface of the table underneath! 

F: Fabric Scissors 
Sharp, high-quality scissors are used for all your fabric cutting in sewing and patternmaking. These will shape the muslin down to the proper size after you have cut it big and broad with the rotary cutter. 

G: Tracing Paper 
I personally do not use this, but many designers like it for leaving marks behind on their muslins. I like a sharpie or tracing wheel, but try these sheets out and perhaps you will love them! Many people do. 

H: Scotch Tape 
It is inevitable that you will need to tape pattern pieces together and I find that basic Scotch tape is the best for this. 

I: Clear Rulers 
Having a variety of clear rulers in different shapes and sizes is essential in your kit for pattern making. I like having a little one for marking in tiny areas, long ones for making marks for pin tucks, side seam lines, and other parts of the pattern making process that call for something longer than average. I also have a quilting square with diagonal lines for helping square up corners and creating angles. 

J: Right Angle 
This is also a huge help in creating perfect 90 degree angles on your pattern. These are also available in clear plastic, which most people prefer. I have had this black one since art school and still use it. 

K: Curved Rulers
To shape arm holes, hip curves, hems and other lines that are not straight in pattern making, it is essential that you have a few different curved rulers to get the proper slope in your pattern. 

 
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