Winter Jacket With Hooded
A jacket is a mid-stomach length garment for the upper body. A jacket typically has sleeves, and fastens in the front or slightly on the side. A jacket is generally lighter, tighter-fitting, and less insulating than a coat, which is outerwear. Some jackets are fashionable, while others serve as protective clothing. Jackets without sleeves are vests.The purpose of drafting a jacket foundation, which includes a tailored two- piece sleeve, is to have a base from which many jacket panel designs are created. The front and back are drafted together and are not separated for pattern work; they are traced for use. The foundation is a plain box silhouette, without stylelines, and with room enough for 1/2-inch shoulder pads. The amount of overall ease varies; inches (closer fit) to 6 inches (loose fit). The armhole is marked with an X to identify the side seam. Armhole shapes differ and X may be shifted to the right or left to correct alignment (sleeve rotation). To test fit the foundation or the sample design, cut in a firm woven preshrunk muslin. Place a 1/2-inch shoulder pad on the shoulder and baste the interfacing to the garment. Correct the fit before use as a base for creating designs. guide in fitting and correcting the foundation and jacket designs. Jackets or coats designed with stylelines and pockets that differ from the billustration should apply sewing instructions to those styles. The instruction is slanted toward industry methods. There are a number of methods for constructing a jacket and a number of ways that interfacing and interlining can be used. Space allows for only a few alternative methods. The ibliography section at the back of this book refers to tailoring texts that offer other construction methods. Preparing Fabric Preshrink fabrics associated with the jacket before cutting. All woven and knitted fabrics shrink, but some fabrics shrink to a greater degree than others. The best method for shrinking is to soak fabrics in water overnight (in a tub or washer). Allow the fabric to drip dry, or roll it in a towel rather than twisting to shed water. Align the grains afterward. (Steam pressing with an iron causes uneven shrinkage and should be avoided.)Manufacturers often order fabrics preshrunk “sponged” prior to delivery. Estimating Yardage Based on 45-inch fabric, use the general rule “2-times-length,” plus one- quarter yard or lay the coded patterns in separate fabric groups (design fabric, lining, and interfacing). Lay the larger patterns first and smaller patterns in leftover spaces for a better estimate. Supplies Needed
- Purchase the fabric and threads to match.
- Interfacing: fusible or nonfusible, woven or nonwoven.
- Chest piece: fusible interfacing, Belgium linen, horsehair, other firm woven
fabrics or a combination of two of those listed when layering the chest pieces; see page 510.
- Twill or fusible tape (stabilize the garment edges and for the bridle)
- Shoulder pads and sleeve headers (available in a variety of shapes)
To find supplies and materials, shop the fabric stores and manufacturers’ supply companies. The Internet may list other sources in your area for supplies and material needed to construct a jacket. Collar and Lapel Classic Designs The classic collar and lapels have their own individual names and characteristics. Select the style that will complement the design of your jacket or coat. The collar and lapel should be selected before beginning the draft of a jacket or coat. The jacket was designed with the semi-notch collar.